Showing posts with label selvage denim. Show all posts
Showing posts with label selvage denim. Show all posts

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Sewing Machine Porn - Featuring Roy Slaper

Dear God, please give me a workspace like the one Roy has.



I've featured Roy here before, and it doesn't seem like his machines have become less cool, since we last heard of him.
READ MORE - Sewing Machine Porn - Featuring Roy Slaper

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Vintage Roebuck's Shirt - Beautiful Decay

Albeit having a bit of fear, that I'll be messing with the market powers by posting a shirt, that is still up for grabs on the Bay, I'm posting some 35 pictures of one of the most beautiful and amazing denim shirts, that I have ever seen. I'm fairly certain, that this will go for a very good price despite it being shared here.
I tend to look for vintage jeans and other denim related objects on eBay quite often to look for a bargain, but mostly to get some good inspiration, or design ideas. This shirt reminded me, that I should be wearing my Wrangler 27MW or possibly attempting to make my own denim at some point.


I'm guessing, that it dates from the early 50's and it was worn by a man, who wore it tucked in his pants and a man, who wore the hell out of it and repaired it in an impressive way.

Other details include selvage guesset, painted brass Gripper snaps and the most awesome repairs ever, which I can't emphasize enough.




































This is patina
READ MORE - Vintage Roebuck's Shirt - Beautiful Decay

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

One Month of Denim - Day 13



"We are a sanctuary for those that dream of rainbow selvedge and obsess over patina"

If you are looking to buy denim, it is harder finding a shop in the Western Hemisphere with a better stock than Self Edge, which now has no less than three, very unique stores. The owner Kiya seems relentless when it comes to stocking some of the very best denim especially from Japan, but in recent year many American brands have also been added.
The cult following that Self Edge has, can be explained in many ways. It could be the stock of the very best jeans in the world, it could be some amazing collaborations, it could be the leather accessories and other apparel, but I think it is all because of Kiya. His customer service is second to none. He is passionately active and very helpful on more than one forum (especially Superfuture) and his energy is enormous, when you see just how many questions he is able to answer in a multitude of different threads.



Among other things, Self Edge are also offering a great hemming service, which means you can get your jeans hemmed with a chain stitch done by one of the great, vintage Union Special machines, which are also the kind that Levi's used to have in their factories back in the gold ol' days. On top of this their ever expanding - and ever improving - assortment is also beginning to include more private label goods and collaborative efforts (with Sam de Goede of Cotton Duck). If you want to get in touch with Kiya, then I suggest you head on over to Superfuture, where you will easily find him - just look for the Japanese denim threads. He is very knowledgeable and has a passion for quality denim, that is unheard of.




READ MORE - One Month of Denim - Day 13

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Crafts - Selvage Denim Laundry Bag



Some time ago I bought several yards of selvage denim from Cone Mills in the US. I passed some on to a friend and the rest have just been sitting in the basement waiting for me to do something about it. Well, I haven't found the courage to make more jeans, though I have done that in the past and I will do so again in the future, so today I spent some hours making one handsome laundry bag with the caring guidance and help from my girlfriend. Or actually it was more of a collaborative effort.
I decided to make this piece out of necessity. I needed something to stow my laundry away in, but I couldn't find anything I liked. But I remember seeing some laundry bags from the American army or rather the navy which were made of a thin denim - possibly chambray. So they were the inspiration for me on this piece, which is why I will possibly add some stencils, once I get around to buying some stencil ink. I already have some amazing Hanson brass stencils, that I would like to use.

For the bag we used some selvage denim (broken twill of approximately 14-15 oz) from Cone Mills, some vintage nylon fabric (I think the term is beaver nylon), a couple of solid brass grommets, some good rope and it was assembled on the Singer 222, that I received some time ago. The same thread was used throughout the project and it was a Saba 50 by Amann - unfortunately not the Rasant type of thread, which I have had troubles finding a good source for.
I did most of the sewing, which is why the stitching isn't entirely straight, though it is pretty good, if I may say so. 
It was the first project I ever did on the 222, and I have to say, it has surpassed my expectations. It plows through whatever you throw at it, and it isn't even an industrial grade sewing machine, but I guess they just made some things better in the old days.

I wish I had taken more pictures of the process, but the light in the basement was poor, so I didn't bother taking that many. Furthermore I was too focused on keeping up with the pace of my girlfriend (who is a tailor's apprentice and has a degree in pattern making), that I found myself forgetting to document the process in pictures.






In short, the bag is made from selvage to selvage across the fabric. Then the grommets were set, but before doing so the leather reinforcements were put in. After that the drawstring hem was sewed, and the sides were connected. We intended to do a flat felled seam, but some miscalculations were made, so it was just a felled seam. Lastly the bottom piece was put in. I decided on the orange fabric because I felt it was a nice contrast to the denim, and orange colour had a navy-ish feel to it. Furthermore I'm sure it will last a bit longer, as it wears harder than the denim and it sheds water. I'm pretty sure that this bag will last a lifetime and improve with wear.











The rope was put in and the ends of the rope was secured with some melted beeswax. This is a very practical way of ensuring the rope doesn't unravel and furthermore it smells deliciously. What I hadn't anticipated was that the rope is already taken on some bleeding from the denim. I'm sure this will get beautiful in some time.


The design is basically too simple to be called design. It is very functional and it will carry a months worth of laundry and possibly more.






You can see the pics in a slightly better resolution on ATD's Flickr. 

And lastly, I would like to thank my girlfriend for the help and support - I'm glad you decided to give my old sewing machine a go, even though you are used to industrial grade sewing machines, which are probably a lot better and easier to use. You did one hell of a job here and I will treasure this bag for a long time and honour it by throwing my dirty clothes in it.
READ MORE - Crafts - Selvage Denim Laundry Bag