"Danish Design Icons" by Mikkel Minor

Denmark is very well known for design and architecture, e.g. Danish furniture is linked with iconic pieces and names – however this has not translated into the fashion industry. For many reasons Denmark has only a few brands and pieces of interest to the conscious male consumer. Very few Danish based brands have a history longer than 20 years, most production is outsourced due to labour costs and very few companies have succeeded in producing long lasting classics. However I have attempted to compile some of the interesting stuff that is out there – some already classics, some to be and some forgotten. 

Feel free to join the discussion.

1. Ole Mathiesen - watches 

Besides original Urban Jürgensen watches, which are hard to come by and very expensive, Denmark has not had any real production of watches. However, we have a strong tradition designing them. Ole Mathiesen is one of these brands and back in 1962 they created OM1 which hasn't changed the design since. It is a classic piece that will look as good in 20 years as it did 20 years ago. A beautiful love child between Swiss craftsmanship and Danish design. 

2. Sadelmager Dahlman - "Arkitektbæltet" - The Architect Belt 

A lesser known iconic piece. But it does deserve a place because of its minimalistic, Danish aesthetic. Handmade and handsewn in their old workshop in Copenhagen. Read more about in the "Factory visit", that ATD conducted some time ago - here

3. Mads Nørgaard - jersey t-shirt

Chances are that if you have been to Denmark - you have seen this piece of clothing. The design of this shirt is by no means original but it is a classic companion in the Danish wardrobe. Mads Nørgaard started shop in 1986 and began producing his own line of clothing and is one of the more well-known Danish fashion designers. His father Jørgen Nørgaard has a shop and a brand called "Nørgaard paa Strøget", which still produces its very iconic "101" long sleeved t-shirt and other garments in Denmark.

4. Duckfeet - shoes

The design is certainly not for everyone but this shoe has survived for more than 30 years. A comfortable fit combined with the best natural materials is hard to beat. The leather quality is good and the rubber used for the sole likewise. Not much more to say other than they also age really well.

5. JBS and Hammerthor - Underwear

JBS is a well-known under clothing brand in Denmark. Not so much fuzz - just affordable quality. Low key design and materials for the average Joe. What's not to like? Many nice products without spreading too thin. This is their classic basic t-shirt which has been worn by many Danish men since it was introduced in 1939. At a price of around only $20 you will have a trusty companion in your wardrobe.

Underwear since 1893! I will let Hammerthor speak for themselves: ”Back in 1893, when the original Hammerthor quality was established, following the latest fashion was not so crucial. In those days, customers were more concerned with quality. As clothes were expected to last for many years, it was important that they were durable and practical. These basic principles are what we still live up to at Hammerthor.”With that attitude, no wonder Hammerthor boxers are still the number one choice among many Danish men. Their website leaves much to be desired, but I guess Hammerthor is busy upholding their good quality. Hammerthor was considered to be underwear for an older generation, but they have recently had a comeback especially with their Ecorinigal line (using ecological cotton and a more contemporary design) and their collaboration with Comme des Garcons. Hammerthor can now be found on the shelves of many fashionable shops in Copenhagen and are being rediscovered by a younger generation who recognize the brand their father and grandfather used to wear. Some would call it heritage wear. Not all Hammerthor products, but some parts of their range are still supposedly made in Denmark.

6. Jaco - Shoes

Similar to the ’duckfeet’, this nostalgic design pleases the foot rather than the eye in most people's opinion. The design philosophy here is more concerned with functionality and comfort than aesthetics. But that was the vision, that the designer, Jørgen Keller, had with Jacoform.  These are often seen combined with washed out jeans, an Icelandic sweater, a backpack, crud eyewear and a beard. The history dates back to the 40’s. Originally the shoe was made of plaice skin, seeing leather was a scarce commodity during the war. The company was still family owned until recently and most production is outsourced nowadays. Luckily for the Jaco fans out there the quality and design hasn’t changed a bit, e.g. the upper leather is still hand sewn.

7. Randers Handsker  - Gloves

This is the oldest manufacturer on the list. Randers Handsker has produced gloves for more than 200 years which to my knowledge makes them no less than the oldest manufacturer of gloves in the world! Until recently some models were still being produced in Denmark. But it has now been outsourced – if you are lucky, you can still find them at retailers. The gloves will have a Danish flag on them if made in Denmark. Randers Handsker can still pride themselves on being purveyor to her Majesty The Queen of Denmark. The glove depicted was supplied to the Danish Police force for many years.

Clip from the Danish radio

8. Kawasaki - Shoes

"Sport shoes in the 70’s, disco shoes in the 90’s, working shoes in the 90’s and today a trendy retro shoe."

Despite the name this has nothing to do with the motorcycle brand and is purely Danish. This shoe was originally made for the sport of Badminton but became the single best selling shoe in Denmark ever. These shoes had a brief revival in the late 90’s, but can still be seen on the streets – mainly on younger teenage girls. However that is really a shame seeing as it is a bang for the buck shoe not unlike converse. I foresee that they will likely resurface again from time to time. It is dirt cheap and durable considering the light suede/rubber design. The original shoes were white and then came black. But not soon after they could be found in multiple colours.

9. Lindberg - Eyewear

Lindberg is perhaps the most internationally acclaimed brand on this list. Known for their unique lightweight titanium design they have won many international awards. LINDBERG is a true representative of the Danish functional and minimalist design tradition. It all started in 1983 with architect Hans Dissing and optician Poul-Jørn Lindberg designing the AIR Titanium frame. Using titanium Lindberg succeeded in making a design that is lightweight (they claim to be among the lightest in the world), flexible and strong. Unnecessary details have been done away with and the frames are designed without screws, rivets or welds. All this makes the frames strong, deformation resistant and hypoallergenic-nickel free. Nose pads and temple covers made from medical silicone ensure that the frame stays in place, and is comfortable. The frames are handcrafted (used to be made in Denmark, but is now outsourced.) and can be customized in countless ways making each pair of glasses individual – but still consistent in their look. The simplicity of the design doesn't claim much attention, but you have most likely seen them on someone famous at some point. The subtle look and quality doesn't come cheap and besides sitting on the noses of famous people, they are mostly seen on scholars and businessmen who demand quality that isn't flashy.

10. SNS Herning - Knitwear

Besides Lindberg SNS strik is one of the few brands on the list that is known internationally due to a revival a few years back. True quality simply can’t be denied.

The company was founded by Soren Nielsen Skyt back in 1931 under the name SNS Herning after the town where it is produced. The name remains the same and so does the method of production - albeit the assembly now takes place in Latvia, it's still knitted in Denmark. SNS is best known for their classic fisherman-knit sweaters, with its characteristic 'bubble pattern' that provides good isolation and prevents the knit from getting to heavy even when wet. The quality is durable seeing as it was designed to be used by seamen.

Their clothes are being produced in exactly the same way and at the same machinery as when the company started, and still in Denmark. Somehow they have managed to keep the prices at a reasonable level. If you come by any SNS knitwear please notice the hang-tag, where you’ll be able to find the handwritten initials of the knitter who was in charge of handling the machine, when the piece was produced. Almost needless to say; the company remains family owned.

All words by Mikkel Minor

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Dahlman Architect Belt - Before and After

While attending a party with some people from my class, I noticed a very interesting belt, that one of the girls were wearing. I immediately identified it as the architect belt, that Dahlman (the avid reader will recognise it from the factory visit at Dahlman) has been making for quite some time. I of course also took into consideration, that someone could have borrowed the design, so I asked, where she got the belt. It appeared, that she hadn't bought the belt herself, instead she had borrowed it from her - stylish - dad and he had bought it many years ago.

Though the belt looked amazing, it also looked like it could do with a little TLC, so I offered to treat it and refurbish the belt.

Here are the before pictures. As you can see, the craftsmanship of these belts is sublime. The stitches are pretty much flawless. But it was in dire need of some oil, which you can tell from the fact, that the grain was cracked and damaged. It almost felt as if it had been sueded.

Here are the after pictures. I felt so bad after this, as the belt became two tones darker, than I had anticipated. And when I gave the belt back, the owner didn't look too satisfied, however I'm still gladly I did it because it felt much better and I'm sure it added even more years to the lifespan of this amazing belt. Lastly I fully enjoyed working very closely with this belt. Just by looking at the details I learned a lot of things.

The procedure is quite straight forward. I was the leather with a good, English saddle soap. After allowing it to dry it treated the belt with Neatsfoot oil and a leather conditioner. Lastly I sealed the edges as much as possible with beeswax, although I found it difficult to treat the edges of a belt, that had already been worn for a long time.

Words by Simon Tuntelder - Photos by Niels Hjorth

READ MORE - Dahlman Architect Belt - Before and After

A Stuffed Horse and Danish Modern

A stone's throw away from the main shopping street in Copenhagen there is a small saddler's shop called, Sadelmager Dahlman. It's a hidden gem with a great story, that needs to be told before it is too late and Dahlman is no more. At its prime Dahlman employed a lot of people and had some stuffed horses to exhibit their saddles, but now there are only two left, the brothers Frank and Erik Hendriksen and the horses have been donated to museums. They haven't employed any apprentices in recent times, so it's probably the end of the line for Dahlman.

Now I could go on and on about the great story and the great heritage of Dahlman, but in this case that isn't the interesting part. Of course it plays a huge part, but I don't find the equestrian side that exciting, though I can appreciate the craft and skills that it requires. But if you want to read about it, they have written about their story in detail - here

There are a few other saddlers in Denmark and some of them might be making belts and leather accessories, but what sets Dahlman apart from the others is their unique assortment. This is a direct result of their willingness to work together - what we today would call collaborate - with the architects, who would later go on and make Danish design very famous. Dahlman made leather work to their specifications and were generally very involved in the creation process. This resulted in leather work on furniture for many famous Danish designers such as Børge Mogensen and Arne Jacobsen, as well as more fashion related items such as a briefcase and a very special belt.

It was the very special belt and briefcase that was our goal on that early spring Saturday when we drove our bikes over to Dahlman's shop. We were greeted by Erik, who was the only one there, as Frank had some other business to attend to. At first he was quite apprehensive, but when he learned that we were very interested in his trade and his products, he more than willingly gave us a tour of Dahlman's legacy. We of course gladly inspected all their products with great care and inhaled that pleasant smell of good leathers that is everywhere in their shop. Erik also showed us all of their old tools which had been passed down by one generation of saddlers to the other. Some of the tools were over a hundred years old, and they looked well-used. Surprisingly they also had a lot of deadstock silver buckles that were used on the royal horse-drawn carriages, which are now used as belt buckles.

Now for the stuff that made us go to Dahlman's amazing shop. All of it has been made since the 1940's when it was developed together with Danish achitects like Kaare Klint, Poul Kühl and especially Erik Herlöw. It later became "comme il faut" among designers to wear these items.

First up, a pair of sandals. These are unlike most other Dahlman items sewn on an old Singer machine, but they are cut by hand. They are meant to be worn inside as a pair of very stylish slippers. If I remember correctly, they cost a 1000 kr ($200), unless you want them fitted for your wide or narrow feet, then they cost slightly more.

Secondly there is the breathtaking briefcase or attaché that was 30 kr (6 dollars in the 40's), when it was first made, and now comes to a staggering price of 24.000 kr (around $4.600), although it was on sale for a bit less. I'm not trying to justify the price, but you do get a very nice briefcase that has been completely handsewn, which takes a couple of days, in a very nice leather with custom made solid brass hardware. This is old world craftsmanship.

Lastly there is the belt that is commonly known as the "Architect belt" because it was worn by many of the Danish architects. In the beginning the belt came in natural only, but Arne Jacobsen wanted the belt in black, so he had the saddlers dye it black, so he could have it his way. If you talk to Erik about the belt, he'll refer to it as the "Saurmurhage bæltet" (in Danish) referring to the French origin of the hook stud used for the belt. The belt is normally made of 27mm wide vegetable tanned leather and again, every stitch is hand sewn using an awl and two needles. What you don't see, unless you inspect the back of the belt, is how each belt hole has drilled channel on the backside in order to make the hook go through the hole more easily.

To me this belt is iconic. Fantastic craftsmanship, great quality, beautiful details, minimalistic design and lastly a story like no other. The price isn't too bad either - around 1000 kr.

Thank you, Erik for taking your precious time to show us around your shop.

All words by Simon Tuntelder and all photographs by Rasmus Peter Vagn Jakobsen

READ MORE - A Stuffed Horse and Danish Modern