Saint James Meridien II

Nothing says summer like a good, rough Breton tee. And I say rough because I want the cotton to be carded and stout and not combed and soft. This is why I've always preferred Saint James over Armor Lux for instance. Though both made in France, I definitely prefer Saint James. There are other good makers like Orcival and Le Troyes, but Saint James is easily available, so that's why I always opt for Saint James.

Furthermore I think the Meridien II model with its boat neck is perfect and the colourway ecru/marine (more like indigo actually) is not only great in itself, it develops over time and become second skin.

Saint James has another great model called Ouessant, which is very popular in Japan because it fits a lot slimmer through the body and the sleeves and is still made of the carded cotton. In Japan you can even get it in solid colours. However having tried it, I didn't really like the slim fit, but I guess it comes down to you body type, but I think it could work really well on women. The Meridien is still my favourite.

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On the Topic of Notebooks

I've always been amused by people, who paid a lot of money for Moleskine notebooks. Not because they're necessarily terrible, but in their marketing campaign, I remember that they gave the impression that a lot of famous artists and writers used their notebooks. But if you looked a bit closer, it was all quotes from the artists and writers saying that they couldn't live without their notebooks - not their Moleskine notebooks. I hardly think, they would pay the costs of a Moleskine.

That being said I'm one of the pretentious guys, that carries a notebook around to take notes, write down grocery lists and draw naughty drawings of naked women. I mostly use Field Notes and Rite in the Rain. And both of them has performed very well, and while I like the fact that you can write in the rain with the RITR notebook, I'm just so infatuated with the Futura font, that I prefer the Field Notes.

Lately I've been looking for alternatives - not because I actually need any, but because I was wondering if there were any made in Denmark (I didn't come across any, but I did find a Danish link) or at least in Europe. And of course you're always hoping for something perfect. As in just that really, really perfect thing (It never happens)

But I did come across a really nice notebook, which is made in France by a company called Calepino. And it was quite refreshing seeing that they had a site in English, which is something the French always seem to miss, and they also look very nice.

If you're still reading and remember that I mentioned a Danish link: The creator of Calepino, Fabrice Richard, mentioned in an interview for the shop La Belle Échoppe that he lived in Copenhagen for a while and that he was greatly inspired by the Danish design philosophy when he started the company. La Belle Échoppe is an amazing store by the way with a perfect concept that I've been meaning to write about for a long time (My notes are terribly messy and mostly unreadable)
Fabrice also mentions that he is doing custom orders, which could be totally amazing and something I would like to look into at some point. I think a slightly larger notebook would be perfect - especially if you like to draw and design stuff. You just need more space sometimes.

The other great option I found was the company Word. They make notebooks in the US. They have a great system for keeping your notes in order, which is great and they offer their notebooks with a camo cover, which is gorgeous.

The use of the Swedish M/90 camouflage is without a doubt my favourite.

If I come across other great options, I'll make sure to share them.

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Paraboot William

There's been so much hype about the double monk strap. And with good reason. It's a great shoe and a very elegant shoe that could easily hold a place in any wardrobe. But mostly many of them are just a bit too elegant with a single leather sole often. However the French company, Paraboot, makes one of the finest double monk straps available, or in fact they make some of the best shoes available. I especially like their model called William, but I will probably also feature the Avoriaz model and most importantly the Michael model.

The William model features the Norwegian construction (similar to a storm welt), which is something that is primarily used on hiking boots or rugged work boots. This can be seen on the two rows of stitches that hold together the upper, the welt and the sole and it ensures that the shoes are basically waterproof. Furthermore it gives more comfort and strength.

Another fun fact about Paraboot, besides the fact that they are still made in France, is that they are the only shoe company that also produces their own sole. They're definitely one of the shoemaking companies that aren't getting enough attention. They're just so good.

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Rancourt - Green Shell Cordovan Moccasin Bluchers

I have a terrible feeling, that these might be the coolest moccasin bluchers, I've ever seen. Some might find them a bit too extravagant for a regular pair of moccasins, but I'm all for this kind of craziness. This is taking a somewhat standard product, which admittedly is an understatement and bringing it to a whole new level.

They're made by Rancourt in the US. Rancourt has long been a maker for a number of other brands (including the Eastlands, that I have - see 1 and 2), so I promise you, that the construction and craftsmanship is second to none. Furthermore the materials couldn't possibly be any nicer. Shell cordovan to me is probably one - if not the - of the nicest leathers around and the sole by Reltex which I honestly didn't know about before seems very, very nice.

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Something About Sunglasses and Wes Anderson

I've got one pair of sunglasses, that I wear all the time during the summer, however they are a deadstock model from Anglo American Optical, which means if I loose them, then I'll probably never see another pair like them. Quite a scary thought. Therefore I'm always keeping a lookout for other alternatives. Of course there are plenty of good classics, that would make do, but I'd really like to find something really special in case I'd have to be without my beloved shades.

Some days ago I came across these Shuron sunglasses on Oi Polloi and I'm pretty sure, that they'd make a great substitute. They are a bit harder to pull off, than the typical "Wayfarer"-varieties, that you see all over the place and from the looks of it, It'll be another masterpiece.

Shuron makes great glasses and great sunglasses and they've been doing so since 1865. They've made them for the common man (their Ronsir model was a huge favourite during the 50s and 60s) and for the American army, so you know, you're getting a quality product. Furthermore production is still based in the US and the price is great. What more can you ask for?

What makes me want them is also the fact, that they remind me of the sunglasses worn by the character Richie Tenenbaum (played by Luke Wilson) in one of my favourite movies, "The Royal Tenenbaums" by Wes Anderson. Wes Anderson is probably my favourite living film director and if you haven't seen his films, then I suggest you do so straight away. His latest movie "Moonrise Kingdom" is out in theatres now or will be soon.

The sunglasses worn by Richie Tenenbaum however were made by the French company Vuarnet, which was a preppy favourite back in the 80's. As far as I know, the model is a deadstock model and I haven't been able to find them in retail, but they do pop up on eBay sometimes.

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How to Saddle Stitch Like an Hermès Leather Craftsman

I re-watched this little clip featuring one of the leather craftsmen, that work for Hermès. And I have to say, that I find it very meditative, plus it made me want to do some leather work, which I can't find the time to do at the moment due to obligations at school.

The type of stitching is called saddle stitching and it dates back hundreds of years. It is a very strong stitch, that you use, when hand stitching leather. It is way stronger than a machine made stitch, in case you are wondering.

This diagram will explain it faster, than I'm able to. But if you have any questions regarding leather, leather crafts or want to learn about it, let me know, and I'll try to help.

I hope this will give some of you a better understanding of, why handsewn leather is so much better and why it costs more, as it is quite time consuming, because very few are just as fast as the Hermès craftsman.

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